Tops- Petroleum Refining and Textile

From ancient times to the present, in all aspects of people's lives, clothing materials plays an important role. The ancients used the bark, the natural plant and animal fur covering its body, and later developed into all kinds of dress. Fabric raw materials used by the people, in general, such as cotton plants, plant hemp, animal fur and silk, they are collectively referred to as natural fibers. With the development of human societyand the natural fiber has not fully meet people's lives and production needs, the 1883 British Swain made ​​the first root of man-made fibers, to enter the course of development of chemical fiber. Until the end of the 1960s, due to the impact of the development of the petrochemical industry, prompting the synthetic fibers, the rapid development of the final in this big field of fiber, there has been an alternative variety - of synthetic fibers.

I as a textile student had been taught and known that synthetic fibers are from petroleum. But I quite curious about how they are manufactured from this black, dull, sticky liquid? Here is my initial research:

How to refining petroleum-

In Molecular Structure, Crude is consists of C1~ C70 Hydrocarbons. Because of the different boiling point, use the fractionation to refine the petroleum. Here is a simple diagram.

figure 1

How the synthetic fibre does comes from-

In the last figure1 C5~ C9 naphtha, this is the raw material of synaptic fibre. Using each component of the porous solid adsorbent different affinity separation, such as separation from kerosine n-alkyl Hydrocarbons for soft detergent raw materials. From mixed xylene separation P-xylene for polyester fiber raw materials. In this process we could refine “Paraxylene” into plastic pallets. Which could make polyamide fiber, polyester fibers, polyacrylonitrile fibers, polypropylene fibers, polyvinyl alcohol fibers.

How does the synaptic yarn be manufactured-

figure 2

figure 3

figure 4

Figure2 is plastic pallets, figure3,4 are spinning machine. Here is the process: pour the plastic pallets in the funnel top of the machine, power on to heat the plastic pallets into liquid. Through the pipes the extrude the yarns out like figure4.

Solutions of petroleum exhaust-

Resources in this plant is going to run out, it is an emergency situation to find solutions.

New method for extracting petroleum

1. extract from the flowers
2. extracted from trees
3. extracted from the waste liquid
4. extracted from the faeces
5. extracted from coal
6. extract the oil from the stone 

Traditional Way

Petroleum resource 100% à PP/PE à End products

Bio- based plastic

Plant absorb CO2 during growth à Renewable plant
                           Petroleum resource

Mix Rnewable plant with Petrolum resource à PSM Bio-based plastic à End products

Tops- Sustainable in Textile

From fibre to market process-

Raw

Yarn

Fabric

Garment

Distributors

Retailers

Customer

Brundtland report two keys:

Brundtland Report

All definitions of sustainable develop require the world as a system-

Society- people

Economy- profit

Environment- planet

Fashion industry to be sustainable economic sustainable socially

Considerate design

Entire life cycle fashion products

TED principles

1.      Mini waste

2.      Recycling/ upcycling

3.      Chemical impact reduce

4.      Energy reduce

Sustainable processing-

Toxic chemicals 

fibre

fabric manufacturing (finishing can be harmful)

Operatives and final users of the product

EU legislation 

Improve local situation, less heavy metal pollution.

Clothing and the global toxic cycle

Sustainable energy and effluent

Energy and water extensively throughout lifecycle. Intensive cotton agricultur, polyester processing

Dirty Landry

A 2011 investigative report from green peace,

Greenpeace "Dirty Landry"

Ethical production

FAIR trade for planet

Linking People

Textile problem with social factors

Production

Seamless products knitwear and accessories

Laser cutting and bonding

Enzyme use in fabric dyeing and printing

New raw material

Ingeo is the first melt process able naturally bared polymer

Ingeo Bio-fibres

INGO biodegradable offering recycling

Biomimicry

Evolving, adaptive and less waste.

DON’T waste it

Garment averag life cycle two years, post consumer and pre consumer waste improving assisted by raw material price up. Purchase recycled content design high vital to reduce consumption.

Garment Care

Laundry account 70% water usage

Less laundry, cold water and line drying

 The current environment

Suppliers costs down

Consumer price down

CRS corporate social responsibility

Cradle to cradle biomimetic approach

Forum for the future

Green piece juncky styling

Tops- Non-traditional fibre sources

Bast fibres

Bast fibre is plant fibre collected from the skin or bast surrounding the stem of certain. Nettle, jute and ramie are derived from the inner fibrous stem material of certain plants. Some crops can offer environmental and social benefits for local native farmers and should be encouraged. Health giving herbs like luobuma from china produce textile. Tough characteristics bast fibres are processed for use in carpet, rope, geotextile (netting or matting), traditional carpets, hessian or burlap, paper, sacks, etc.

Hemp

One of the main oldest cultivated fibre, hemp is used for a wide variety of purposes including the manufacture of cordage of varying tensile strength, durable clothing and nutritional products, body products, health food and bio-fuel. Natural strength, UV resistance, thermal, properties and durability. Renewable requires little agricultural.

Leaf fibres

Leaf fibre is mainly obtained from sword-shaped leaves that are thick, fleshy, and often hard-surfaced, cellulose from agave, pineapple and banana. This kind of fire is too hard and strong, not a suitable material for wearing. Proper use in floor coverings, shoes and ropes.

Seed hair fibres

Kapok-fine and silky short fibre, use in insulation and fibre filling. Coir, hard wearing and abrasion resistant, use in floor coverings, geotextiles and ropes. Natural renewable.

Peat fibre

Organic plant remains found Scandinavia peat bogs. Good thermal properties, UV protect, anti static with natural antiseptic properties.

Alginate fibre

Alginate was first produced from seaweed in 1940. Sea weed, natural healing from iodine. The developmental revival of alginate fibres is due to the medical applications of these fibres. Blended with cellulose, general use in underwear, anti-inflammatory, antiseptic. Medical hasten blood clotting ncourage haling on damaged skin. Non-woven burn skin dressings.

Metal fibres

Metallic fibres are manufactured fibres composed of metal, plastic-coated metal, metal-coated plastic, or a core completely covered by metal. Al, cooper, steel impact functional aesthetic, memorize predetermined shape react to heat. Electromagnetic radiation against detectable by radar, heat-seeking devices.

Paper fibres

Paper is produced form many natural sources, such as pine tree, cotton, rice and abaca , banana.

Bio-fibre

DNA the mystery of life, scientist devote their entire life to figure out the puzzle, but could only pry the surface. This is work is still in the early stage, no limit time frame to solve to the end. Dextrose from plants environmentally life cycle. Spider silk investigated genetic modification. Milk casein viscose-type fibre.

Man-made synthetics fibres

Polyethylene, PVC, polypropylene, polyurethane, oil. High strength, heat set, industrial, medical, sport, medical textile. Recycled.

Sprayed fibres

Developed from a company Fabrican, use liquid suspension technic. Sprinkler head cross-linking (ormed) the liquid to the indicate body, once adhere and dry to create instant non-weave.

Rapid Prototyping fibres

Emerging technology, ultraviolet beams to us layers of powdered thermostatic into shape.

Growing fabric fibres

Petro-chemicals or plants. Biocouture work, microbes to grow a textile material.

3D spacer fabrics fibres

Warp knitted or woven 2mm~50mm. Central pile layer consists of countless threads, elasticity and flexibility.

Over size stitches

Size and scale

Oversize gauges

jonathen kuo

Micro-sized

Nano-knitting

80 stitches/ inch

Althea chrome

Althea chrome

Biomimetics

Mimetic a living bio system

Speedo’s fast skin suit

Gecko’s ability of sticking surface

Self cleaning waterproof

Stomatex, leaf’s natural ability, eanspire and keep dry

Pine cone open or closed depending to the temperature

Body scanning

Body measurement system

Moulded fabrics

Mould synthetic yarn around a form to create silhouette

Magnetism

Fe strongest magnetism. Iron ions in our human blood tube, magnetism fabrics could promote blood circulation for medical and healthcare.

Precious waste

Virgin resources (after heat and chemical) poorer quality

Zero waste cutting

Holly mcquillan -> digital print

mark-liu-zero-waste

Tops- Commercial fibre sources

Cotton

Cotton is the most widely, popular and practical of all natural fibres. Track from the history, cotton ultivation in the ancient Egypt of the Nile valley. To now the production and export of cotton extends to more than 100 countries, over 350 million people involved in  this production, farming, transportation and manufacturing. through the science and technology, it has been improved performance. Nano technology- core spinning enhance stretch elements inside cotton yarns.Genetic modification- manipulate the genetic and change the performance characteristics of the firbes.

Silk 

A aesthetic appeal and luxurious qualities genetic manipulation fibre, produced a shimmering richness that can express a lush. It is produced from the chrysalis of silkworms. China was the first country to develop the art of silk, cultivating the silk moth and produced threads of fascinating texture.

Wool

Wool is an animal protein fibre obtained from sheep and certain other animals, including cashmere from goats, mohair from goats, alpaca, camel from animals in the camel family. For these animals live in the boreal climate, wool ignites at a higher temperature than cotton and some synthetic fibres. It has low heat release, meanwhile have an excellent resistance to harmful UV lights. People often ignored that wool is a kind of original high performance fibre.

Flax 
Flax, the ancient raw material, is the oldest textile in the world, predating cotton and possibly even wool, and is known to been use during the  6000 B.C. in the Middle East and Egypt. Flax fibres are used to make linen. The Latin species name usitatissimum means most useful, indicate that how flax fibre influence the traditional human life.

Man-made cellulosic
Man-made cellulosic textils are another traditional way for the textile field. Like other fibres the resource satrts with natural cellulosic, such as wood, bamboo,beech trees, seaweed and cotton. Wood pulp is dissolved in a chemical solution and machine to produce varieties of different type fabric. Viscose, Lyocell, Nylon and Polyester are a subset in this group. Because of the high wet strength and absorbency, it is used in medical care in hospital staff.

Luxury animal fibres

The creatures that produce these fibres have evolved of supremely soft and warm material, uniquely against with severe climate. Musk ox, Qiviut, Angora rabbits, Alplaca, Camel, Cashmere goat. Each of the animals has coats that possess complex and unique properties.

Qiviut

Alplaca

Cashmere goat

Polyester and Polyamide
With the development of human society and the natural fiber has not fully meet people's lives and production needs.The impact of the development of the petrochemical industry, prompting the synthetic fibers, the rapid development of the final in this big field of fiber, there has been an alternative variety - of synthetic fibers. With multi-functional, these oil-based synthetic fibres could be produced as diverse as engineering use to fine delicate fashion fabrics. But with the depletion of the earth's resources, oil crisis is an urgent issue need to find solution.

polyster

polyamide

Transport textile

Nylon polyester, polypropylene, wool, Kevlar, carbon and glass are general use materials.

 

Spacer fabrics
Use wrap knit stucture to create a 3D fabircs. Product advantages are: durability, recyclability, pressure redistribution, fire retardancy, anti-bacterial, breathability. Spacer fabircs are bing usd for the rplacement of foam and neoprene products.

Agrotxtiles

Textiles used in Agriculture are termed as agro textiles. They are used for crop protection,fertilisation, and bio-degradation, resistance to sunlight and resistance to toxic environment. All these properties help with the growth and harvesting of crops and other foodstuffs. There is a growing interest in using materials which gradually degrade. Horticulture and farming areas, for crop protection, warming the soil and shading.

Gotextiles

Used in civil engineering, road building embankments, canals.

Medical and hygiene textile

Fibre compatible with tissue, strong, non toxic and can be sterilized.
Intern implants bio-degrade.

Architecture textile

Construct as temporary or permanent structures.
Consider about space, structure and textile.

Active sports textile

Military sector, sails, rucksacks, polyester and polypropylene high stretch durability.

Domestic textile

Anti-bacterial fire retardant, finishes, linen, duvets, blankets.
Comfort, ease of laundry and hygiene.

Interior textile

Curtains, blinds , upholstery, carpets, mats. Fire retardation and abrasion.

Tops- from fibre to fashion textile

Fibre the raw material consists of fabrics. No matter from animal or plant resources, are spun into yarn, which in turn is constructed into fabric.

Fibre
Mostly fibre can be made from plant, animal, or mineral substances, and can be processed into a long, thin, flexible yarn.

Yarn
Yarns, or threads, are fibres that have been spun together to create a continuous length of interlocked fibres. They are usually knitted or woven together to make fabric, and may be dyed before or after ts process.

Spinning
Twisting fibres together by spinning binds them into a stronger, longer yarn. Originally fibres were twisted by hand, the invention of electricity made the spinning process much more rapid and mass product. For the present time to meet the demand of textile industry and commercial enterprise.

Fabric Construction

Weaving
Weaving is the most traditional technic to make fabrics. Two sets of threads, the vertical and the horizontal
use the interlock way to process the in a weaving loom. Majority of commercially woven produced on commercial-controlled looms in India, China, and South-East Asia because of the labor cost.

Knitting
Kitted fabric is constructed from yarn by means of a series of interlinked loops. This ca be hand using needles, or by knitting machine.The size of stitch, whether hand or machine knitted, dictates the fineness or chunkiness of the fabric, and is depend on the size of the needles and the thickness of the yarn. Wrap knitting
is a cheap, stable and fast technic in the industry.

Crochet
Different than 2 hand knitting needles. Crocheting is using one hook needle to pull loops of yarn through other loops.

Dyeing
The process of adding, discharge, or transferring colour to yarns, fabrics, or a exist garment. For the protein or plant fibre apply different pigment dissolve into water, resin in process of cold, hot, and cold water to fix the colour.

Print
It is a way to use pigment to draw onto the fabric.

Screen print
Use a wood block by hand or machine roll the dye on silk screen. The block are engraved with the design and the colour will apply on to the fabric.

Digital print
A quick engineer way to run the print, apply Photoshop design the patter, use pr-treated fabric and inkjet technology to print reactive dyes.

Stitch
Embroidery is a form of surface decoration made using threads or mix media to transfer the origin surface texture.

Felt
Felt is a non- woven cloth, processed by the merino wool fibre 90 degrees interlock layers using hot water and soap to press. In the process hot water and press, wool fibre is getting shrink and the firbe will go into the interspace between. This is the way to form the structure the of the fabric.

Process from fibre to fashion

Raw material

Yarn manufacture

Fabric

Design

Garment

Retail

Customer